Reference Guide

Watch Trading Glossary

The essential vocabulary for watch dealers and collectors. 74+ terms defined.

A

ADJ

#

Adjusted. Refers to a watch movement that has been adjusted for accuracy in multiple positions.

Technical

AP

#

Audemars Piguet. Swiss luxury watch manufacturer, famous for the Royal Oak.

Brands

AR Coating

#

Anti-Reflective coating applied to crystal to reduce glare and improve legibility.

Technical

B

Bezel

#

The ring surrounding the watch crystal, may be fixed or rotating, sometimes with markings for timing.

Technical

BNIB

#

Brand New In Box. Watch is unworn and includes all original packaging and accessories.

Condition

Box & Papers

#

Original box and documentation (warranty card, booklets, etc.) included with the watch.

Condition

Boutique

#

Brand-owned retail store, as opposed to third-party authorized dealers.

Dealers

C

Caliber

#

The specific movement used in a watch, identified by a reference number.

Technical

COSC

#

Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres. Swiss organization that certifies chronometer accuracy.

Technical

Complication

#

Any function beyond basic timekeeping (date, chronograph, moon phase, etc.).

Technical

Consignment

#

Arrangement where a dealer sells a watch on behalf of the owner for a commission.

Trading

Crown

#

The knob on the side of a watch used for setting time and winding.

Technical

D

Dealer Price

#

Wholesale price between dealers, typically below retail market price.

Trading

Deployment Clasp

#

A folding clasp mechanism that allows the strap to stay attached when opened.

Technical

Dial

#

The face of the watch displaying the time, may include complications and indices.

Technical

Double Boxed

#

Watch shipped with double packaging for extra protection during transit.

Trading

E

ETA

#

Major Swiss movement manufacturer supplying many watch brands.

Technical

Exhibition Caseback

#

Transparent caseback allowing view of the movement. Also called display back.

Technical

F

Flipping

#

Buying a watch with intent to resell quickly for profit.

Trading

Full Set

#

Complete watch with all original accessories: box, papers, tags, etc.

Condition

Franken

#

Frankenwatch - a watch assembled from parts from different watches, often misrepresented as original.

Condition

G

Grey Market

#

Secondary market for watches sold outside authorized dealer networks. Legitimate but parallel distribution.

Trading

Grey Dealer

#

Professional dealer operating in the secondary market, outside of authorized dealer networks.

Dealers

GMT

#

Greenwich Mean Time complication showing a second timezone, typically with a fourth hand.

Technical

H

Hacking

#

Feature allowing the seconds hand to stop when the crown is pulled out for precise time setting.

Technical

Hesalite

#

Acrylic/plastic crystal used on vintage watches and some current models (e.g., Omega Speedmaster).

Technical

Hulk

#

Nickname for Rolex Submariner with green dial and bezel (ref. 116610LV).

Models

I

In-House

#

Movement designed and manufactured by the watch brand itself, not outsourced.

Technical

J

JLC

#

Jaeger-LeCoultre. Swiss luxury watch manufacturer known for complications.

Brands

K

Kermit

#

Nickname for Rolex Submariner with green bezel and black dial (ref. 16610LV).

Models

L

LNIB

#

Like New In Box. Watch has minimal wear but includes original packaging.

Condition

Lug

#

Projections on the watch case where the strap or bracelet attaches.

Technical

Lug Width

#

Distance between lugs, determining compatible strap sizes.

Technical

Lume

#

Luminescent material on hands and indices for visibility in darkness.

Technical

M

Manufacture

#

Watch company that produces its own movements in-house.

Technical

Market Price

#

Current trading price in the secondary market, may differ from retail.

Trading

Mint

#

Condition term indicating a watch shows virtually no signs of wear.

Condition

Mod

#

Modified watch with aftermarket parts (dial, hands, bezel, etc.).

Condition

Moon Phase

#

Complication displaying the current phase of the moon.

Technical

MSRP

#

Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price. Official list price from the brand.

Trading

N

NATO Strap

#

Nylon strap that passes under the watch, originally designed for military use.

Technical

NOS

#

New Old Stock. Vintage watch that was never sold or worn.

Condition

O

OEM

#

Original Equipment Manufacturer. Genuine parts from the watch manufacturer.

Technical

Oyster

#

Rolex's iconic bracelet design with flat three-piece links.

Models

P

Patina

#

Aging/discoloration of dial or hands over time, often desirable on vintage pieces.

Condition

Pepsi

#

Nickname for watches with blue and red bezels, especially Rolex GMT-Master.

Models

PP

#

Patek Philippe. One of the most prestigious Swiss watch manufacturers.

Brands

Power Reserve

#

Amount of time a watch will run without winding. May also refer to indicator showing remaining power.

Technical

Pre-Owned

#

Previously owned watch, may show varying degrees of wear.

Condition

Purchase History

#

Record of purchases from an AD, often required for access to hot models.

Trading

Q

Quickset

#

Feature allowing rapid date change without moving through 24 hours.

Technical

R

Reference

#

Model number identifying a specific watch variant.

Technical

Rep

#

Replica/counterfeit watch. Illegal to sell as genuine.

Condition

RSC

#

Rolex Service Centre. Official Rolex service and repair facility.

Technical

RO

#

Royal Oak. Iconic Audemars Piguet model designed by Gérald Genta.

Models

S

Sapphire

#

Synthetic sapphire crystal, highly scratch-resistant. Standard on modern luxury watches.

Technical

Service

#

Complete maintenance including cleaning, oiling, and adjustment of the movement.

Technical

Serviced

#

Watch has undergone professional maintenance, typically documented.

Condition

Speedy

#

Nickname for Omega Speedmaster.

Models

Starbucks

#

Nickname for Rolex Submariner 126610LV with green bezel and black dial.

Models

Sub

#

Rolex Submariner. Iconic dive watch.

Models

T

Tiffany Dial

#

Watch dial with Tiffany & Co. branding, highly collectible.

Models

Tourbillon

#

Complex complication that rotates the escapement to counter gravity effects.

Technical

Trade

#

Exchanging watches between dealers, with or without additional cash.

Trading

Tritium

#

Radioactive material used for lume on vintage watches (pre-1998), now replaced by Super-LumiNova.

Technical

U

Unworn

#

Watch that has never been worn, though may have been handled or tried on.

Condition

V

VC

#

Vacheron Constantin. One of the oldest and most prestigious Swiss watchmakers.

Brands

Vintage

#

Generally refers to watches 20+ years old, though definitions vary.

Condition

W

Waitlist

#

Queue at authorized dealers for high-demand watches.

Trading

WDG

#

Watch Dealer Group. Major verified dealer network using WhatsApp.

Trading

WTB

#

Want To Buy. Post indicating desire to purchase a specific watch.

Trading

WTS

#

Want To Sell. Post offering a watch for sale.

Trading

WTT

#

Want To Trade. Post offering to exchange watches.

Trading

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